For centuries, Kochi (also anglicised to Cochin) has attracted explorers, travellers and traders from all over the world. It is a lovely set of islands that are clustered around the mainland, each flowing into the other and yet having distinct characteristics of their own. From the cosmopolitan hub of Ernakulum to the historic areas of Fort Kochi and Mattanacherry, Kochi proudly wears its heritage on its sleeve. Its coastline is silhouetted with
Chinese fishing nets, while the streets are interspersed with Dutch,
Portuguese and British era structures. There are beautiful churches, a
synagogue that is four centuries old and ancient mosques. And then there’s
the native and home-grown art, culture and cuisine that are certain to provide a sensory overload. Spending 48 hours in Kochi is all too easy, and might seem far too less even.

Day 1

Plunge right into Kochi’s most notable sights and diverse history on the first day by wandering around Fort Kochi and Mattanacherry and immersing in the city’s colonial past.


10 am
MATTANCHERRY PALACE
Start the day with a visit to one of the most unlikeliest of palaces and one with differing styles. It is rather petite with a predominance of wood and goes back mid-16th century. Interestingly, it was built by the Portuguese and presented to the Kochi royal family. The Dutch later added to it, and so it is also called Dutch Palace. It is predominantly in Kerala architectural style and has a central courtyard but with distinct European characteristics. Among the temples here are ones dedicated to the deity of the royal family, as well as Shiva and Krishna. There are displays of royal artefacts as
well as costumes and weapons.


11.30 am
CHURCHES
Head to the St Francis church, which is probably the oldest European church in India. Going back to the early 16th century, it is closely associated with the Portuguese since it was built soon after they landed. Over the years, the church has undergone a lot of changes — from being a wooden structure at inception, it was later constructed with brick and
mortar and has had several facade changes. Also, it was Catholic in the
beginning and dedicated to St Anthony but later converted to a Protestant church and named after St Francis. Vasco da Gama’s remains were buried here but later moved to Lisbon and only a gravestone marks the place. Later, head to Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica which goes back to the
mid-16th century.
1 pm
KAYEES RAHMATHULLA CAFE
If there’s one place not to miss in Fort Kochi, it has to be this tiny but very
popular traditional restaurant. A simple, blink-and-miss board with Rahmathulla Café is the only indication. It is more popularly known as Kayees, named after the person who started the eatery in 1951. There’s no ambience and the furniture is very basic with communal style seating,
but food is where it scores. The menu is quite brief but people usually order without looking. Feast on the mutton biryani, which is mild and lightly spiced with tender mutton morsels. There are a
handful of other chicken and mutton dishes, but the biryani is the hero.
2 pm
JEW TOWN AND SYNAGOGUE
The afternoon can get quite humid but resist the urge for a siesta and wander around Jew Town instead. The streets are packed with interesting structures and filled with shops selling antiques, spices and a gamut of knick-knacks. Don’t be surprised to run into a full-size kettuvallam, or wooden rice boat. Tucked into one of the lanes is the Paradesi Synagogue, a mid-16th century synagogue. What stands out are the Hindu and Christian features that seamlessly mingle on its facade. If you find your energylagging, pop into one of the many little cafes that are hidden in the nearby lanes.


5.30 pm
STROLL ON THE BEACH
Head to the beach by evening to get a view of the imposing Chinese fishing nets, a sort of symbol for Kochi. They were supposedly gifted by the Chinese emperor in the 14th century and are still in use. In the evening, local fishermen hoist the nets one by one and haul in the day’s catch. As
the sun sets and everything cools down, it is a good idea to go for a long walk along the beach. Along the way are remains of Fort Immanuel from where Fort Kochi gets the first half of its name. Further on are displays of various maritime objects such as an anchor and other objects.
8 pm
DINNER AT FORT HOUSE
There’s no better place for dinner with a view than Fort House Restaurant with its spectacular views of sunsets and delicious Kerala food. Have appam with stew and mango prawn curry as well as fried pearlspot but opt for Syrian Christian dishes which are the speciality here.

Day 2

Step outside Fort Kochi for a hefty dose of local art, heritage and culture as you wander around some of the highlights of Ernakulam and surrounding areas.
9 am
KERALA BREAKFAST
Start the day with a hearty Kerala breakfast at one of the many eateries that serve typical dishes such as appam, puttu, kadala curry and stew. For seafood lovers, look for a place that serves these dishes with fish curry and chicken fry.
11 am
MUSEUM RUN
Any visit to Kochi is incomplete without a visit to two spectacular museums. Of these, the Tripunithura Palace Museum, which originally belonged to the Kochi king, is beautifully located on a hillock.
The museum is also quite deserted so history and heritage buffs can leisurely look at the beautiful paintings and epigraphy that belonged to the royal family of Travancore and Kochi. The palace’s rooms have been converted into 16 galleries displaying ancient artefacts including such precious articles such as the Cochin Royal Crown and Crown Jewels. From here, head to the Kerala Folklore Museum which has a magnificent display of exhibits dealing with local life and livelihood. It has over 4000 artefacts in metal, stone, terracotta and wood, and include such eclectic things as implements and objects from the stone age, lamps, jewellery, musical
instruments, folk art, paintings, utensils and masks, among other things.
2 pm
LUNCH AT PARAGON
Among one of Kochi’s oldest restaurants, Paragon is considered the place to go to for a taste of the local cuisine. It is especially a favourite with seafood and meat lovers. Try the fried pearlspot, mutton roast, fish moilee, fried prawns and squid.
3.30 pm
PALLIPURAM FORT
Standing against the backdrop of the sea in Vypin island, the hexagonal fort built by the Portuguese goes back to the early 16th century and is onsidered to be the oldest European fort in the country. Wander around the ruins which bear testimony to the architectural skill and splendour of the era.
5 pm
MARINE DRIVE
Head to the most bustling place in Kochi where the long road faces the backwaters and is also full of malls and stores. Walk along the road and cross the two bridges — Rainbow Bridge and Chinese Fishing Net Bridge — from where spectacular sunsets are visible. Or shop for traditional Kerala
artefacts, garments and local sweets and banana chips.
8 pm
DINNER AT DHE PUTTU
End the day and the visit with a very traditional Kerala meal. The highlight is of course the various kinds of puttu (steamed rice flour). While the savoury version can be had with a variety of dishes such as kadala curry and fish and chicken curry, the sweet version with jaggery is
delicious and the apt end to the meal.